Hiking in Danube Delta and Transsylvania Carpathians
2005/9/26 1:50:51

The Danube Delta: At the end of a 1700 mile long journey across Europe the Danube River

empties its water into the Black Sea. Here the Danube splits into numerous canals creating the second largest delta on the continent. Vast expanses of swamps and forests as well as a scatter of pretty lakes surrounded by thick reed belts provide a perfect sanctuary for over 300 species of birds, most of them migrating either north in the summer or south in the winter.



Carpathian Mountains: This second largest European mountain range extends about 800 miles in a great semicircle from Slovakia to Romania. Its highest point with 8700 feet is the “High Tatra” in Slovakia. Rich deposits of gold, silver, iron ore and many other minerals are of great economical importance to the local people. Large expanses of pristine forest still provide an ideal habitat for Europe’s biggest population of brown bears, wolves and lynx. With the opening of Eastern Europe in 1990 tourism has started to develop. Countries like Romania and Slovakia not only offer good walking in untouched landscape but are also rich in culture, history and traditions.

Zarnesti: Located in the southern part of the Transsylvanian Alps. With its 25’000 inhabitants it has preserved much of its rural character. Foreigners, by the way, had no access to the town during the communist era due to the presence of a huge ammunition factory. The surroundings vary from green valleys and hills to large expanses of pristine forests and alpine pastures where shepherds have learned to coexist with wolves and bears. Not to forget the majestic Craiului mountain range with excellent hiking and climbing opportunities.

Day 1 : Arrival at BucarestArrival at Bucarest airport and transfer by private motorcoach to our hotel located in the middle of Herastrau Park. Remainder of the afternoon free. Welcome drink and orientation briefing followed by dinner at the hotel.

Transfer time by bus : 0.5 hour

Day 2 : Tulcea and the Danube DeltaTransfer by private motor coach to the starting point of our 3 day cruise, the town of Tulcea considered the gate of the Danube Delta. Lunch en route. Upon check-in at our house boat we depart on one of the three Danube arms to the fishing village of Maliuc in the heart of the delta. Dinner and accommodation on board.

Transfer time by bus : 5 hours
Transfer time by boat : 2 hours

Day 3 : Lake Fortuna and CrisanAfter breakfast we take a small boat to explore some of the narrow canals crisscrossing the delta. Visit of the beautiful “Lake Fortuna” populated by large colonies of swans, ducks, pelicans and terns, depending on the season. Lunch on board.

In the afternoon we continue our cruise downstreams toward the coastal town of Sulina. One mile before Crisan we take a left turn into the old Danube where we stop for the night. Dinner on board.

Day 4 : Letea ForestToday’s field trip take us to the impressive Letea Forest, a national park since 1938. Follow the old river in a small boat until you reach Letea, the most remote fishing village in the delta. Take a walk through the nearby subtropical forest with a large number of different tree species and even some sand dunes. Picnic lunch. In the afternoon return to the house boat. Dinner on board.

Day 5 : Lake Bogdaprosta and TulceaAfter breakfast we start for our last birding excursion. Our destinations are two scenic lakes in the surroundings of Crisan. Lunch on board. In the afternoon return to Tulcea. Dinner and last night on the house boat.

Day 6 : Zarnesti in Transsylvania (Transfer day)After breakfast travel by private motor coach to Zarnesti at the foot of the Craiului Mountains. Lunch en route. Check-in upon arrival followed by a short walk around the town. Dinner at the guesthouse.

Transfer time by bus : 5 hours

Day 7 : Magura Village and Zarnesti GorgeOur first walk takes us to the nearby hills south of Zarnesti. They are dotted with with traditional Romanian villages. Magura is one of them, with beautifully carved wooden farm houses. The meadows are covered with all sorts of wild flowers such as different species of orchids. The local farmers who have lived here for centuries still work their land by hand and bring in the hay by horse and cart. Listen about the history of the settlements which where built as sanctuaries against the invasion of the Turcs. In the afternoon we are going to experience a completely different kind of environment : the spectacular Gorge of Zarnesti. Keep your eyes open for the wallcreeper as you walk between sheer lime stone rocks. Dinner at the guesthouse.

Walking time : 4 hours (up 800 feet, down 800 feet)
Transfer time by minibus : 20 minutes

Day 8 : Brebina Valley and a Gipsy VillageToday’s field trip starts outside Zarnesti, on an easy trail leading gradually uphill towards the Pleasa ridge. The forest is really impressive and all sorts of tracks show us the abundance of wild life. Brown bears, wolves, lynx, wild boar and red deer are roaming the area, mainly at night though. On top we will be rewarded by a magnificent view over the so-called Barsa Land. The mountains around us were the core for a 10 year international projet on large carnivores such as brown bear, wolf and lynx. Picnic lunch. On the way back to Zarnesti we will pass by a gipsy village. Listen about the present day situation of Romania’s largest minority.

In the afternoon we visit one of the oldest fortifications in Romania, Rasnov Castle, built in the 13th century as a check-point along the road between Transsylvania and the Wallachia. Dinner at the guesthouse.

Walking time : 3 hours (up 1500 feet, down 1500 feet)
Transfer time by minibus : 15 minutes

Day 9 : Prejmer and BrasovThe places we are going to visit today will help us understand Transsylvania’s complex history. First we drive to Prejmer, a small Saxon town with a newly renovated fortified church, where local people used to hide when the Turcs invaded the country. Continue to the Brasov, which started off as a German mercantile colony named Kronstadt. The guided tour includes the famed Black Church, the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istambul. Its name comes from its appearance after a big fire around 1700. Lunch in a local restaurant. Free time before returning to Zarnesti.

Dinner at the guesthouse.
Transfer time by motor coach : 2.5 hours

Day 10 : Pleasa Ridge Walk

Start today’s rom hike on a forest trail leading up to a long stretched hilly ridge with superb views. To the right endless rows of hills, covered with pastures and dotted with farm houses, known as the largest village in Romania. To the left the Craiului Mountains with their majestic peaks. Follow the ridge for about 3 miles before descending to the valley. In a nearby summer cabin you will have time to relax, chat with local people and try their food.

Walking time : 5 hours (up 1500 feet, down 1000 feet)
Transfer time by minibus : 20 minutes

Day 11 : Dracula’s Castle and Bucegi Mountains

After breakfast we drive to the neighbouring town of Bran and visit its majestic castle, commonly known as Dracula’s Castle. While everybody knows Dracula as a bloodthirsty vampire, few people know his real name : Vlad Tepes, who ruled Wallachia around 1500. In the afternoon we take a last walk in the nearby Bucegi Mountains. Picnic lunch. Farewell dinner at the guesthouse.

Walking time : 3 hours (up 1000 feet, down 1000 feet)
Transfer time by minibus : 45 minutes

Day 12 : Bucarest (transfer day)

After breakfast transfer by private motor coach to Bucarest. Check-in and light lunch in the hotel. The guided tour in the afternoon includes Bucarest’s main attraction, the House of Parliament. Dinner not included.

Transfer time by private motor coach : 2 hours

Day 13 : Transfer to the airport for return flight (0.5 hours)

Topics of field lectures and lectures

* the Danube Delta, a bird’s paradise
* history of Romania and Transsylvania (focus on the period after WW2)
* the gypsies, Romania’s largest minority
* guided tours in Brasov, Bran and Bucarest
* living with predators (video film made by the BBC in 1998)
* a shepherd’s lonely life in the Carpathian mountains
* traditional Romanian music and dances

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